Elizabeth I Transformation by David Claudon

Elizabeth I Transformations

by David Claudon

	Transformations were similar to paper dolls from about the seventeenth century on. They were intended for you to lay the picture over another to "transform" it. As I worked to create an Elizabeth I paper doll, I realized that the later costumes so overwhelmed the undressed Elizabeth that adding tabs would do nothing to hold on the doll. So I have instead created transformations where, if desired, you could cut out the various dresses and place them over the undressed queen. Those interested in more Elizabeth I portraits, might check out Portraits of Queen Elizabeth I.
		The first panel shows the queen wearing a partlet (the laced overlay at her neck), a chemise (sometimes used as a night gown), the boned corset, bum-roll farthingale and bum roll. Under the farthingale she would be wear a couple of petticoats. Her shoes are doeskin and made the same--creating left and right feet shoes occurred later. The shoes are slashed with designs. The gown at right is based on "The Pelican Portrait" from ca. 1575, attributed to Nicholas Hilliard. Here Elizabeth at 41 has become an icon. The gown is so named for the "Pelican" pendant that Elizabeth wears at center which represents charity and redemption. A traditional Christian symbol used in the Catholic and Anglican Churches, it represents a mother pelican which pieces its own breast to feed its young. The blouse uses "blackwork" against a pale green background. At her neck is a ruff of stiffened lace. The corset is elaborately decorated with pearls and black gems, as are the picadils which form scollop tabs at the base of the corset. The center panel of the undergown contains designs based on the tudor rose and the fleur-de-lys (a reminder of the claim the English continued regarding the French throne) found in the original painting. She carries a pair of gloves and a feather fan. The National Maritime exhibit points out that Elizabeth's red dress would have been dyed with cochinel which was controlled by the Spanish, thereby making red fabric often unattainble except to the rich.
		At left in panel two is a dress based on Quentin Metsys the Younger's "The Sieve Portrait" (1593). She wears a bum roll farthingale black gown with a matching pointed bodice and slashed sleeves. She wears an elaborate ruff and lace at her wrist. A double string of pearls and brooch adorn the bodice. Over the sleeves she wears a sheer cloak which emphasizes her head. She carries a sieve, one of the symbols of chastity and purity. The gown at right is based on "The Rainbow Portrait" (1600) attributed to Isaac Oliver. The bodice with heavily jeweled sleeves with a rearing serpent pattern. She wears a double ruff, one at her neck and the other framing her head. The sheer winged cloak reminds one that Spencer dedicated a poem to her on the "Fairie Queen." The elaborate cloak has eyes and ears worked into a design. The elaborate hairdo and hat show continue the iconization process that characterizes Elizabeth portraits. In the actual portrait, for example, a very youthful Elizabeth replaces the 67 year old monarch.
		The third panel shows a dress from "The Peace Portrait" (1580-1585) of Marcus Gheeraerts the Elder. Against a cream background, the Tudor rose and other Elizabethan flowers are set. The bum roll farthingale, matching bodice and sleeves include wings which hide where the sleeves were tied on, a cartwheel ruff and what appears to be a Turkey-worked robe. She carries and olive branch symbolizing the peace she brings to the country. The also has the ubiquitous string of pearls at the neck and the gloves and fan. I was particularly drawn to this dress because most think Elizabethan costumes were dark and somber looking. This is anything but.
		The fourth panel (perhaps the most recognized of the monarch) is based on "The Ditchley Portrait" from 1592 by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger. It is the largest known portrait of Elizabeth. Here Elizabeth wears a wheel farthingale, extended stomacher, matching sleeves with trailing oversleeves, the ruff framing the head and two sheer "wings" similar to what is seen in The Rainbow Portrait. A dark patterned over-skirt can be seen at the back of the skirt. She carries a fan and gloves and wears three strands of pearls.
This page was created by C. David Claudon, August 14, 2006. Last update September 15, 2006 . For information on obtaining these prints, contact me [ Home ] [ Rich East ] [ The Cleopatra Costume ] [ Commedia dell'Arte ] [ Cyrano ] [ Dressing for Shakespeare ][ The Iliad ][ Decorating Forties Style ] [ Decorating for a Fifties Christmas ] [ To Kill a Mockingbird ] [ A Rainbow Honor Roll ] [ Miniatures ] [ Paper Dolls ] [ Santa Collection ] [ Clarence ] [ St. Bernardine's Church ]